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Like I told one of my girl friends: "consider it Assault With a Friendly Weapon"!
Watching those guys (and girls) on the Maui North Shore or Mavericks 50 footers, their boards are the size of snow boards. They have to be towed in by jet skis to get started, just to get up enough speed. It's terrifying to watch, if you every rode some big surf. My biggest was 14 feet at Black's Beach. One ride and I was 1/2 a mile down the beach. Coronado Islands has some huge waves as well.